Jamdani is an ancient art and weaving technique that creates patterns of various colorful designs on Khadi, cotton or silk fabrics. A weaver uses the hooks and colorful threads or Gold/Silver zari threads to create motifs of geometric patterns and floral designs on the fabrics to increase the look of the fabric.
The word Jamdani is derived from the Persian word “Jam” meaning floral and “Dani” a vas or a container named after decorative floral patterns found on dhakai muslin and later on dhakai Jamdani.
Jamdani weaving is one of the most time-consuming and labor-intensive forms of fabric production by hand on a traditional loom. Depending on the intricacy and density of the design, a weaver could spend more than a month to complete weaving a Jamdani Saree. The product from this style of weaving is called the “jamdani” a highly designed fabric that originated from the Dhakai Muslin, the most transparent and delicate cotton cloth ever woven by human hand.
Origin
The Dhakai muslin derives its name from Dhaka (now in Bangladesh) during the reign of the Mughal Emperor Jahangir from 1605 to 1627 the plain muslin was decorated with a wide range of floral designs. Emperor Jahangir is seen wearing a jamdani sash around the waist; this flowered muslin came to be known as the jamdani.
The original seat of Jamdani weaving was Sonargaon even though the fabulist Dhakai Muslin became extinct the Jamdani survived, the main reason for its survival was the increasing use of this fabric as a sari by all classes of Bengali women.
Current Status
The sari is the common dress for women in Bangladesh. In the early 20th century the seat of Jamdani weaving began shifting substantially from Sonargaon to Rupshi which lies 5 miles southwest. Rupshi across a sprawling countryside is now a region in Narayanganj district. Jamdani weaving flourished in two sections Kazipara and Noapara of Rupshi. Today Jamdani weaving is found in Sonargaon, Rupshi and Siddhirganj.
Process of making Jamdani
Prior to actual weaving on the loom there is a complex and tedious process of preparation such as yarns to make the fabric, dyeing process etc.
In weaving a Jamdani two Weaver’s sit at a loom this is how they weave up a Jamdani Saree, once a jamdani saree is done a weaver coats it with starch made of parched rice, he cuts the sari from the end to separate it from the loom.
Below is the image of the finished product, a Jamdani Saree.
The distinguishing hallmark of the Jamdani Saree is that its designs are neither embroidered nor printed but created directly on the loom in the process of weaving. The weavers need not use any drawing, they weave designs smoothly out of the pattern stored in their minds. There are numerous designs which they have imitated from nature from trees, creepers, foliage, flowers, fruits and vegetables. Any design that the weavers want to replicate fuses readily into the fabric as their hands move gracefully upon the loom they concentrate on the task of the moment blending the knowledge of the past with their hopes for the future.
