Women of Bengal camp up with this craft in Vedic period. It can be said that this craft came into existence because of the need to cover once body, protect newborns from cold weather or to secure essential items at home.
Kantha Stitch is known as women’s art; this craft was passed on from mother to daughter. Kantha is not just an embroidery, every design has a story behind it. The craft women use to embroider their life stories, daily happenings, happy and sad moments, festivals and special occasions. In short, every memorable moment was served in the form of this embroidery. This is why every embroidered piece was different and unique.
Kantha has been mentioned in history multiple Times. In a 500 years old book, Sri Sri Chaitanya charitamrita written by Krishna Das Kaviraj. An incident is mentioned in the book where the mother of Lord Chaitanya sent her son a kantha through some pilgrims while he was staying in Puri.
Another interesting incident is mentioned by Niaz Zaman in her book “The art of Kantha embroidery” she mentioned Indian artist Abanindranath Tagore encounter with an old woman from Srihatta district of Bangladesh who showed him a Kantha she made where she had embroidered all her memories from her wedding day to her old age in form of Kantha stitch. Another historic mentioned of kantha is in a poem called “Ebar Phrao Morey” Written by Rabindranath Tagore. he wrote that prince Siddhartha who later became Gautam Buddha, while leaving his Kingly e home covered himself just with a Chinna Katha (Tattered kanth) only and started his journey in search of ultimate truth.
While talking about the history of Kantha we cannot leave behind the famous Bengali love story written in the form of a poem called “Nakshi Kathar Math” by Jasimuddin in 1928. A woman named Saju started making a Nakshi Katha while waiting for her husband Rupai who abandoned her. She mentioned all her sorrow and pain on it. Years passed and rupai didn’t return and While waiting for him Saju passed away. As her last wish she had asked her mother to cover her Grave with the Katha she made. this poem by Jasmuddin indicate that Katha was not just meant for beautification, it was used to express once emotions and feelings.
The process of making Katha was interesting too. Layers of old dhotis and saris were piled up and then stitched with colorful motifs.
Types of Katha
- Lep Kantha- used as a blanket. Old clothes were piled up and stitched together to make a thick and warm wrap.
2. Arshilata Kantha are meant to cover the mirrors in the Bengali households. It mainly originated from “Khulna” district of undivided Bengal but currently in Bangladesh. To increase the beauty of Arshilata Kantha wide borders were embroidered with colorful threads.
3. Bayton Kantha:- Bayton katha are ideally made in rectangular shapes, it was used to cover books, food plates and any other valuable articles. It also originated from the “Khulna” district of Bangladesh.
4. Durjani Kantha:- It was used as Purse bag, a beautiful lotus flower was embroidered in the middle of the kantha. It was used to keep money and puja articles.
5. Oaar kantha:- It was used as pillow covers.
6. Sujni Katha:- It was a bed cover or mat on special occasions like marriage or religious festivals. The making of Sujni Kantha started in the 18th century in Bihar. Women of 15 villages in Muzaffarpur are experts in it. Sujni Kantha art is protected under GI Act of India. Kantha has motifs outlined with black color and filled with multiple colored threads.
7. Rumal Katha:- It was used to rub and clean face. It was embroidered with different beautiful designs.Cross Stitched Kantha:- The use of cross stitch began due to the impact of British rule in India.
8. Lohori Kantha:- Womens from royal families from Bangladesh are experts in it. The design of this kantha is different from others, the motifs are inspired from waves.
All designs of kantha were inspired from nature and region, because of this Kantha made by Hindu and muslim womens were different. According to Hindu beliefs the perfect symbol that represents the birth of life from Water and Sun is Lotus.
Lotus has a special place in Kantha. It is a symbol of Goddess Laxmi- Hindu deity for Wealth and prosperity.
Matsya means Fish is a staple food of Bengali people. It represents a home with abundant food and resources.
Chakra or wheel stands for continuation of life and discipline.
Swastika: Stands for happy blessings.
Tree of life represents Fertility and prosperity.
Muslim Kantha motifs were geometrical; womens from Murshidabad are expert in it.
Tara Chutki (Star and Pinch)
Lathi (Stick)
Aina Khopa (Mirror & hair bun)
Other than these women from both religions preferred motifs like flowers, trees or religion animals and birds.
What type of Stitches used in Kantha?
Mainly four types of stitches used to make Kantha
Running Stitch:- It’s mainly used and Kantha Stitch, this is the basic stitch used in Kantha for outlines and to fill the motifs as well.
Stem Stitch:- It’s similar to running stitch it is used in Kantha for outlines.
Herringbone Stitch:- It’s used to fill the shapes. 
Satin Stitch:- It’s also used to fill the shapes and designs.
There is something special in Kantha because of it is so much loved even today. This craft, which was created by Bengali women’s is India’s Heritage. It represents the lifestyle of our ancestors. It’s our duty to preserve and promote such crafts in India. Next time whenever you buy a kantha Product, remind yourself that you are taking home the art of your ancestors.
